Expand Antigua. Move it to Europe. Throw in a bunch of Greek, German and Guatemalan fusion architecture.
That's Xela.
Find us on the map in the highlands as Quetzaltenango, (Xela is the abbreviated Mayan name), it's finally dawned on me just how nice San Pedro was. Xela is very nice too, but it's very obviously a city. I like cities, but after the friendly, moving-but-not-busy San Pedro, it's a bit of a shock. You don't just walk around town anymore and greet everyone, nor can you cross the city in twenty minutes. Busy, modern, and with few dogs and no tuktuks (sad. You have to get run over by cars instead) it reminds me more of the pace of Antigua.
We arrived on Monday after a shuttle ride including complimentary serenading of Justin Bieber and Lady Gaga. Joy. Leaving tomorrow, this makes it our shortest stay in any place yet.
Yesterday was a trip to Fuentes Georginas hot springs, which put us so high in elevation, that we were in the clouds. That's interesting- being at 8,000+ feet makes the clouds seem closer - it looked like you could reach up and touch them.
Today was a visit to three nearby pueblos- San Andres Xecul, San Cristobal, and Salcaja. San Andres Xecul is home to the world's weirdest church. It was painted white at one time, but in recent decades was painted a bright yellow base (after school buses), and then the ornate animals, cartwheeling angels, jaguar heads, and random flowers were painted the primary hues of chicken buses.
Further up the hills of San Andres Xecul a smaller version of the church is used for Mayan ceremonies. While still the bright yellow, the less busy and eye-catching pattern allows one to drag their eyes away and stare out over the valley at that first church, decidedly out of place in the sea of gray buildings. Atop many roofs, however, skeins of freshly dyed yarns dry and add color.
In San Cristobal was a converted convent and the second oldest church in Guatemala. Plain white but just as pretty, it was huge. Certainly the largest church I've ever seen.
Salcaja, a few minutes away, housed not only the oldest church in Guatemala but the oldest church in Central America. Open only on Saturdays for morning mass, we somehow managed a Wednesday entrance. Good connections? Drapes of lace and a delicate altar, it became my new favorite church in Guatemala, and believe me when I say we've seen a lot of churches.
Tomorrow- back to the beginning, AKA Antigua, for one night, enough time to abandon all of our stuff*, before the traveling begins. In the order of Copan, Honduras, up to Tikal, Guatemala, and if we have time, Caracol, Belize.
It's hard to believe that ten weeks ago I wrote 'and towards the end of our trip, what I'm looking forward to most- Tikal.' Now here approaches both the end of the trip and Tikal... where does time go?
Hasta el proximo fin de semana,
Anda
*Including the computer! No blog posts next week.
That's Xela.
Find us on the map in the highlands as Quetzaltenango, (Xela is the abbreviated Mayan name), it's finally dawned on me just how nice San Pedro was. Xela is very nice too, but it's very obviously a city. I like cities, but after the friendly, moving-but-not-busy San Pedro, it's a bit of a shock. You don't just walk around town anymore and greet everyone, nor can you cross the city in twenty minutes. Busy, modern, and with few dogs and no tuktuks (sad. You have to get run over by cars instead) it reminds me more of the pace of Antigua.
We arrived on Monday after a shuttle ride including complimentary serenading of Justin Bieber and Lady Gaga. Joy. Leaving tomorrow, this makes it our shortest stay in any place yet.
Yesterday was a trip to Fuentes Georginas hot springs, which put us so high in elevation, that we were in the clouds. That's interesting- being at 8,000+ feet makes the clouds seem closer - it looked like you could reach up and touch them.
Today was a visit to three nearby pueblos- San Andres Xecul, San Cristobal, and Salcaja. San Andres Xecul is home to the world's weirdest church. It was painted white at one time, but in recent decades was painted a bright yellow base (after school buses), and then the ornate animals, cartwheeling angels, jaguar heads, and random flowers were painted the primary hues of chicken buses.
Further up the hills of San Andres Xecul a smaller version of the church is used for Mayan ceremonies. While still the bright yellow, the less busy and eye-catching pattern allows one to drag their eyes away and stare out over the valley at that first church, decidedly out of place in the sea of gray buildings. Atop many roofs, however, skeins of freshly dyed yarns dry and add color.
In San Cristobal was a converted convent and the second oldest church in Guatemala. Plain white but just as pretty, it was huge. Certainly the largest church I've ever seen.
Salcaja, a few minutes away, housed not only the oldest church in Guatemala but the oldest church in Central America. Open only on Saturdays for morning mass, we somehow managed a Wednesday entrance. Good connections? Drapes of lace and a delicate altar, it became my new favorite church in Guatemala, and believe me when I say we've seen a lot of churches.
Tomorrow- back to the beginning, AKA Antigua, for one night, enough time to abandon all of our stuff*, before the traveling begins. In the order of Copan, Honduras, up to Tikal, Guatemala, and if we have time, Caracol, Belize.
It's hard to believe that ten weeks ago I wrote 'and towards the end of our trip, what I'm looking forward to most- Tikal.' Now here approaches both the end of the trip and Tikal... where does time go?
Hasta el proximo fin de semana,
Anda
*Including the computer! No blog posts next week.
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| Last day in San Pedro: me painting the lake |
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| Fusion architecture? |
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| Parque Central, Xela |
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| Celebrate Valetine's day with pink limonadas |
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| My dad and I at the hot springs... we're in a cloud |
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| San Andres Xecul. Weird- yes or no? |
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| The small version |
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| This doesn't stand out, does it? |
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| Guatemala library |
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| Second oldest church in Guatemala... |
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| And the convent. |
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| Oldest church in Central America |
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| Detail |
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| And inside. |
Aaah, Anda, amazing the contrast! Awesome! I love the pics, and I can feel your shock. XD Too bad we won't be hearing from you this upcoming week, but we all hope that you have a wonderful time and I wish you safe traveling! Tchöss! :D
ReplyDeleteWow, what gorgeous pictures. And you guys now have a whole new world of crafting and artistry skills! Love the blog, keep bloggin'. -Amy M.
ReplyDeletePity about the lack of tuktuks! The churches sound incredible, and that air view of the colorful church surrounded by the grey building was, in my mother's approximate words, National Geographic worthy, along with all the others! Best of luck on your adventures, have fun!
ReplyDelete-Luna
Can't wait to see you guys in person. How much different you must be, inside and out! We sure appreciated all your posts, and pics! It's great to see the oldest church, and even the lace inside. Thanks for all your vivid descriptions. Hope you all travel well.
ReplyDeleteLove, Bonnie